My Building Steps


16’ x 8’ ½’’

Sill Gasket

I applied the sill gasket with all purpose caulking on all the metal that wood would be touching to help prevent moisture condensation.   

Foam Board

To insulate the floor, I used foam board, which I cut to fit into the cavities of the trailer.  I choose to do this over building a floor on top, so that I could save head room.   I used spray foam insulation to fill in the gabs on the underneath. 

Plywood & 2 x 4s

Next, I cut 2 x 4’s to go around the whole edge of the trailer. I cut 5/8 inch plywood (particle board) to fit on the inside.  I used bolts to connect the plywood and 2 x 4’s to the trailer. 

Wall Framing

I began framing the walls.  I built the 8’ sides as one wall and the two 16’ sides are two separate walls that met in the middle.  I used galvanized 2 ½’’ screws with some soap to make them go in smoother.

Squaring the Walls

I found it easiest to screw a board to the wall once it was square to keep it that way for the wall construction and then remove it once it was built. 

The Walls Going Vertical

    Once I got the walls up, I used 5 inch long ledge locking screws to screw them all together.  I ended up using about 60 of them.  Both on the corners and any place that they met and needed extra support.  I also used many bolts to attach the walls to the trailer framing. 



I invested in this heavy-duty tarp, which for the most part worked well but was difficult to get it over the top because it was so tall.   

Corner Brackets

I used 10’ corner brackets, which are supposed to give the structure extra support.  I don’t know if they really did much at all. 

Roofing Rafters

I attached the rafters with joint brackets on the high side and used and S bracket to secure the joist at the lower end.  


I used 3/8th inch plywood to cover the whole house. 


      Using nails to hold the boards up when screwing them in is a huge benefit, especially if you are working on your own. 


I chose to cover my window framing with the sheathing to make my life easier. 


Before I sheathed the roof, I put in the studs for the loft because I wanted to have some place to work on the roof from.  I used the same ledge locking screws to secure the studs to the existing wall studs. 

Window Framing

After all the sheathing, I continued by cutting out the sheathing from the window and door areas.  And I used seam tape on the seams created by the sheathing. 

House Wrap

I wrapped the house with house wrap to help prevent moisture damage.  I also wrapped around the windows and cut them out after. 

Installing Windows

I continued by installing all the windows and caulking the seams on the outside. 

Electrical Outlets

Installing outlets wherever I wanted them. 


I continued by framing the outside utility shed. 


I had left over insulation and decided to use it right away and insulate the wheel-well. 


I used 10’ boards to create the floor of the loft. 

Threading Rods

I purchased 12 foot long threading rods, ¼ inch thick and installed 4 of them, to add extra structural support to the house. 


I framed the bathroom wall.  One regret that I have is that the studs weren’t quite straight up from one side to the other but for the loft is wasn’t an issue, as for the walls it looks a little silly because my wall isn’t straight. 


I chose metal roofing because it was light, effective, affordable and easy to install.  I used tin snips to cut the roofing to the right size.  This was difficult and took a few days accomplish because of blistering. 

Roofing Screws

This was the type of screws I used.  They are just called roofing screws but make sure they have that small ring at the top with foam to keep everything watertight.  


I chose vinyl siding because once again it was affordable, light and easy to put up.  I used roofing nails to attach the siding to the house.  To cut the siding, I used tin snips, which worked great. 

Vinyl Trim

I used j-channeling around all the windows and doors and the basic corner trim on all 4 corners. 

Plumbing & Electrical

I used ¾ inch Pex for all the plumbing, which made everything easy.  For the electrical I had help from my sister so I don’t know exact terms but we ran the electrical wire each outlet and switch and also made sure all of them were grounded. 


I used Roxul insulation to insulate the whole house. 


I used 4 inch v-groove white pine paneling to cover all the walls and ceiling, which I attached to the studs with 1 & ½ inch finish nails. 


For flooring I used 5 inch red oak boards and below that I installed furring strips to prevent moisture damage. 

Sanding & Polyurethane

I sanded and polyurethane[d] the floor in the loft and on the lower level.  In between the three coats of polyurethane, I used fine grit steel wool and tacky cloth.  


I added some storage on the ground level.  Using birch in between shelves gave it extra support and gives it that extra pop.  


I mounted the counter top and the sink inside the counter top as well as installed the stairs.  I also finished the sinks by adding the hot and cold lines connecting to the faucets and the drain pipes. 


I installed a shower pan and paneled the shower walls.  After the paneling, I put 4 coats of exterior grade white paint to protect the wood from the moisture.  


I finished the house by adding trim to the windows and anywhere there was a crack or seam. 

Finishing up

I finished by painting some walls and I used polyurethane on the others.  A house is never finished because there are always small home improvement projects.  But for now, I am happy with the way it has turned out. 


My own place to call home.